Variety pack of alligator clips from RadioShack (unless charger comes with decent ones…) Has a 6v option and an internal "trouble" switch that stops charging if something shorts out. Small battery charger or home made power supply ($20-$50 at AutoZone etc) - Its best if the charger Anti-oxidant goo (IE Noalox – This is not necessary
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5 feet pliable tie wire (non insulated) SEE UPDATE on Step 2 - the tie wire rusts out after about a year - you may want to use something more substantial or resistant to rusting. 5 feet 12 awg (or so) insulated copper wire in two colors 5 sections of 18” long 1/2” steel rebar ($5 at Home Depot –īuy in longer sections as needed) (DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL) Clean 5 gallon spackle bucket or other plastic container to meet your size needs If you have a charger, then most folks with a decent shop full of crap can do it for almost nothing. This project cost me about $40 because I did not have access to a small battery charger.
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(now linked to a waybackmachine archive of the site - modern suggestions for this background are welcome). The current travels through the solution and in the process flakes off the rust - the flaking/softening occurs because of the reaction at the surface of the good steel that pushes the rust off.įor more info on the chemistry of it all.
You attach the positive end to the anode and turn on the power. You hang your rusted tool in the solution and attach it to the negative end of the power supply. Several other sites do a better job of explaining the chemistry of this - but basically you set up a conductive solution and insert some sacrificial anodes.
As opposed to grinding, heavy wire brushing and acid bath processes, this method removes none of the original steel and is not noisy or caustic. I used this process to restore an old wood plane that I bought for $1 (it looked totally un-usable because of the rust). This is a relatively simple, safe and cheap way to remove light or heavy rust from any ferrous object.
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